It was my first time,
i rented a wet-suit and
borrowed a board from a friend,
and we hit the beach.
Holy Shit! i'm hooked.
Jan 30 and i'm swimming in the ocean,
wow, not bad for a knuckle-head from
'the middle west.
I gotta figure out a way to do this more often.
I also have to figure out how to actually surf.
lets just say the waves rode me,
not the other way around.
i did kinda get the paddle thing down,
holy shit my arms are tired,
and when you get out of the water
(we were in for about an hour and a half)
you feel totally high/drunk/stoned/amazing
my body feels like jelly and
i'm sore in places
i didn't know got sore,
but if i had a wet suit and a board
i'd so be out there again tomorrow.
dude, i feel so local (ha-ha)
i have a feeling i'm going to fall asleep early tonight!
surfing in january.....wow.